View Full Version : Cutting brass rod
carlor
2009-10-05, 10:27 AM
Hi there,
I picked up a couple of 3/4" brass rods from Lee Valley's discount bins with the idea of using them in pens. I was thinking that I could cut a piece to fit in the 1/8" gap left by a table saw blade when you cut a blank on an angle.
I haven't tried it yet but I'm wondering the best method for cutting the brass. I was thinking of just using a hacksaw but I'm worried about getting parallel sides plus I was worried about the grooves left by the blade being visible on the edges in the finished turning.
From what I understand, brass can be turned on a wood lathe so I was thinking of chucking up a piece and using a parting tool to give me a nice clean and parallel cut.
What are your thoughts on this?
Thanks,
Carlo.
Bellsy
2009-10-05, 01:42 PM
Chuck it up in the lathe and turn away. You'll need to resharpen the chisel, but that's besides the point. I've been using the brass I have to make small tools for pen turning and it is much more user friendly than steel. Drills easy, taps easy.....etc.
Try your skew chisel on the brass for best results.
Dave
Sawdust
2009-10-05, 07:49 PM
I concur with Mr. Dave's assessment. (I just love talking adult :cool: ) The statement about resharpening tools is right on. I have the Wolverine jig set up for the tool and just lightly touch up the tools every few minutes. No need to grind the tool down to a nub. I have a cheap set of water slip stones that I run across the edges after the grinder. Once you get into the routine it really is effective and the brass doesn't have a chance. And, obviously, while you have the piece on the lathe you can Micro Mesh and Brasso it to a mirror finish. Just be sure to hand sand with the lathe off when you start the process. You want to knock off any burrs before you sand under power. It took one pretty nasty little cut for me to figure that out. For small pieces that aren't on the lathe I use a Dremel with felt wheels and polishing compounds and then metal polish.
Chief Hill
2009-10-06, 12:44 PM
Suprised allot of people dont know about this.
I would find a cheaper way of doing it i.e. on the lathe but here is one from PSI.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/TUBESAW.html
carlor
2009-10-06, 02:47 PM
Thanks, but I see two problems with this:
1. It only cuts to 1/2" and the brass rods I have are 3/4"
2. I'm too "frugal" (others use a different word) to pay for it :)
Any thoughts on a chop saw with a dedicated *old* blade or would that be too dangerous?
Thanks,
Carlo.
Chief Hill
2009-10-06, 09:24 PM
A chop saw with a grinding blade for metals. I have one, It would work fine. Might be overdoing it. but hey you can cut pipes and rebar after the tubes. :)
seriously though, what about a pipe cutter? The twist type plummers use. I have used one of them (mini type) on 7mm tube it worked ok.
Thanks, but I see two problems with this:
1. It only cuts to 1/2" and the brass rods I have are 3/4"
2. I'm too "frugal" (others use a different word) to pay for it :)
Any thoughts on a chop saw with a dedicated *old* blade or would that be too dangerous?
Thanks,
Carlo.
Sawdust
2009-10-06, 10:53 PM
.......seriously though, what about a pipe cutter? The twist type plummers use. I have used one of them (mini type) on 7mm tube it worked ok.
Chief, are you talking about a plumbers tube cutter? I had the impression that Carlo was talking about a solid piece of brass rod. I don't have one of those PSI tubing cutters but wonder if it would cut solid stock. Somebody educate me.
Bellsy
2009-10-06, 11:02 PM
Chief, are you talking about a plumbers tube cutter? I had the impression that Carlo was talking about a solid piece of brass rod. I don't have one of those PSI tubing cutters but wonder if it would cut solid stock. Somebody educate me.
It would cut rod, but I wouldn't want to be the one having to turn it.
I've used my pipe cutter to cut brass tubing, but it rounds the end of the tube over. Then you need to open the end of the tube up again......kind of defeats the purpose. I was able to acquire a miniature cut off saw that works well and all I do is dress the end of the tube on the disc sander to remove the burr.
Mr. Dave
Curly
2009-10-07, 05:14 AM
Thanks, but I see two problems with this:
1. It only cuts to 1/2" and the brass rods I have are 3/4"
2. I'm too "frugal" (others use a different word) to pay for it :)
Any thoughts on a chop saw with a dedicated *old* blade or would that be too dangerous?
Thanks,
Carlo.
What you want to look for is a Non-Ferrous Metals saw blade. It will cut the brass but you will want to clamp it in some kind of vice or shop made holder that is bolted/clamped to the saw.
You will get better cuts and longer blade life if you use a blade lube stick. It's a grease/wax type mix that you rub a bit on both sides of the blade for each cut.
If you are cutting thin pieces use a shop vac to suck the slices away rather than have them fall back into the blade and get re-cut or spit out at you. :mad:
Naturally ear and eye protection along with a face shield are recommended. ;)
If you are going to use an abrasive blade as suggested by Chief Hill, make sure it's designed to cut non-ferrous metals. If it isn't it may stick to the blade and cause it to fracture. Same reason for not grinding brass or aluminium on a bench grinder. They load up, get hot and fly apart. :eek:
Pete
edblysard
2009-10-07, 08:07 AM
Do you have access to a bandsaw?
I have a 14", and the metal cutting blade was quite cheap, like me...only $11.00 American at the local blade dealer.
They sell bandsaw blades by the inch, and weld them up free with the purchase.
A little saw blade lube and you can zip through brass, aluminum and such quite accurately.
Take the cut off disk and a little light oil, place a 400 grit wet n; dry sandpaper on a flat surface, and you could sand off any toothmarks and cutting marks pretty well.
carlor
2009-10-07, 10:13 PM
To Chief Hill: it's 3/4" solid brass rod
To edblysard: I have a tiny, crappy little bandsaw that is a struggle to cut wood straight... and that's after I "tuned" it up.
Thanks to everyone for the advice. I think I may give it a go on the lathe and see what happens.
Thanks,
Carlo.
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